Clearly visible from Denver
and sitting at the apex of the Rampart Range, the Devil's Head
area is an extraordinary climbing destination. Historically the
area has been used by hikers working their way up to the fire
overlook for the amazing views and by ATV enthusiasts riding
the maze of trails, but times have changed. Approximately 400
high quality climbing routes have been developed on high quality
featured granite and are featured in Rampart Range Rocks, THE
guide for climbing at Devils Head.
The rock of Devils Head
is geologically different from surrounding areas, enabling face
climbing on highly featured stone. The finer grained intrusions
of textured granite bear a strong resemblance to City of Rocks,
Idaho and comprise over 50% of the rock at Devils Head. The
mountain is covered with crags, spires, walls, and corridors,
with over 50 different areas.
The climbing lies at elevations
ranging from 8,000' to 9,700'. The elevation and the diverse
orientation of the crags means good conditions can be found in
spring, summer, and fall. Many of the crags have outstanding
views up to 100 miles, with Pikes Peak the centerpiece of the
south facing areas.
Development of new routes
started over 20 years ago spearheaded by the relentless energy
of Tod Anderson, author of the guidebook. The main climbing areas
are spread out along the southern aspect of the mountain in four
major locations: East Valley, West Valley, Lower West Side, And
Radio Head. Some hiking is involved as the crags are dispersed
across the entire mountain. Good trails with signs at critical
junctions are in place.
Crags from 40' to 400',
offering both single and multi-pitch climbing will be found.
Vertical to near vertical climbing on edges, patina plates and
chicken heads from 5.6 to 5.13 will have you smiling and planning
your return trip before the end of the day!
Please note: ALL PROFITS from the sale of Rampart Range
Rocks goes directly back to the Devils Head climbing community in the
form of new routes and the upkeep of existing routes. While other guidebooks
may present the same information, they cannot make the same statement.